Earthquake Hits Japan

The road was shortly cordoned off.

Where I was during the earthquake.

Earthquake alarms sent messages to our phones.

Although we are geographically living in a place that is used to, or prone to earthquakes, its something to experience one in person. The large 8.9 earthquake hit north of us up in Sendai just before 3:00p.m. on 3/11/11.

Before the quake, we were just going about our day.  My husband was at work, my oldest was at a friend's house in one of the Towers, my middle son was stretching for track in the school gym, and my youngest was with a friend who lives close to his school, and I was visiting with my neighbor from Bremerton and her young son at a park near the water on base.  I was sitting on part of the play structure talking to my oldest (on the phone) when he said, "Do you feel that?" My immediate thought was "oh no".  The ground was shaking, the waves in the water were crazy, the lamp posts were swaying and the metal canopy above the play structure was shaking. I've heard rumors that it was a few minutes long.....but it seemed to go on forever. 

I think in any emergency situation the immediate need to contact loved ones is human nature.  I heard that the cell phones were down after the quake, so I felt so frantic not being able to reach everyone here.  Thank goodness Lee Ann was with me.  She was very helpful and calm.  I must say that I didn't relax until about 2 hours after the quake....when I finally heard from my oldest.  He and a friend headed to a park out in town that's on higher ground.  Good thinking since there was a tsunami warning for our area through 2200 last night. 

I'm so grateful that we had the car with us yesterday.  Its not a commuter car, but we had it on base because of all the evening activities that were supposed to take place.  If we didn't have the car, we would've been walking home like everyone else since the trains stopped running.  The traffic was backed up and it took us almost an hour to go less than 3 miles.  Once we were home, we didn't notice any damage to the house, or our neighborhood.  We are on top of a hill, so we felt safe from a tsunami.

We were able to post on Facebook, and email loved ones back home yesterday.  Thank you for all the love and support you sent our way.  I'm grateful we were safe, but am completely saddened by the devastation up to the north of us.  The media footage is horrific and heartbreaking.  We send out hope and strength to all the Japanese as they prepare to move forward after yesterday's tragedy.

Riding The Trains (Densha)

Platform "2" to Shinagawa.

Train Timetables.  Trains start running at 0500 to just before Midnight.

Yokohama Station- busy place especially on a Sunday!

Our family had little experience riding trains until we came to Japan.  We'd used them a bit when we lived in San Diego, but overall we were novices to this "new" way of commuting.  At first, just thinking about purchasing a train ticket was challenging.  We've made huge progress since being here, but it hasn't been free from trial and error.  Here's a little rundown of how to get onto the correct train.

1) At the ticket machine there is an English button that will walk you through everything.  Most of the time there is a map above the kiosk that will tell you how much it will cost to where you are going.  In the event that we weren't sure or that the map was solely in Japanese, we just put in a certain amount of Yen and did a fare adjustment at another Kiosk once we were at our destination.

2) Once you ticket spits out of the machine then you walk through the turnstile.  Put your ticket into the slot and it will pop up at the other end.  Grab it before you head up to the train.  I forgot to grab my ticket once and had to ask the ticket booth attendant (that was interesting to try to explain) to fetch it for me.  I'm happy that it was in the lock box at the turnstile and that someone was able to help me.

3) Now, after you have your tickets you need to figure out which train to take.  The trains will show the "final" destination on large signs so that will guide you to the correct platform.  Once on the platform, there is usually (unless at a smaller station where you will just look at the timetables shown in blue and pink on the wall) a digital train schedule that will show times, platforms and destinations.  The trains that say "local" or also known as "black trains" will stop at every stop until the final destination.  To shorten your trip you can use the red or green trains..or express trains.  This is a good option if you're heading up to Yokohama or up to Tokyo.  The trains run from around 0500 to just before Midnight.

Once you've made it to your final destination, the trick is always how do I make it back?  Just as long as you back track, make sure to have a phrase book handy, get an English map of the train systems if possible (they have them on base) and of course just ask for help.  Language barrier or not, someone has always been willing to lead us into the right direction.

HELPFUL TIPS WHEN RIDING THE TRAINS:

• Turn off your phone, or use manner mode on the trains.
• Get a Pasmo or Suica card.  
• Do not stay on the train when everyone else has gotten off.  This means its probably at the end of  its route.  We did this once and someone helped us get onto another train
• Do not blare your headphones on the train.  
• Avoid taking the train around 9am during the weekday if possible.  This is rush hour and you will be standing, or crammed into the train.
• Make sure you don't get too relaxed or into a good conversation and end up missing your stop.  This happened to me and a friend just yesterday. 

The Language Barrier

Probably one of the most difficult things about adjusting to our new home has been the language barrier.  We came to Japan equip with 2 years of High School Japanese (Justin) , Japanese phrase books, a little bit of Rosetta Stone, travel guides, and vast information from people currently living in Japan, or who had lived here in the past.  While all this information was invaluable we've found communicating our basic daily needs a bit  interesting and sometimes challenging.  Just  knowing how or what to say is something we've always taken for granted back at home....not here.  We rejoice when we get the correct thing we ordered on the menu, onto the correct train, or when we can say a certain combination of words to get our point across.

We are fortunate that we have so many resources available for us to learn the language.  Not only are there  free conversation classes during the week, but there is a bi-monthly Saturday class, and minimal fee classes both on and off base.  There is just so much to chose from depending on your interest and skill level.  Currently, three of us have been taking a 10 week conversational class (I'm doing it during the day, while the other two are taking the night class).  This has given us basic information we can use when shopping, eating out, needing directions, basic greetings, etc.  Its also given us the opportunity to network which I find extremely useful being new to the area. 

This week I was able to go with a friend to sit in on an intensive language class taught out in town.  We wanted to see what it was like since the next semester is starting in April.  I was very impressed with what I saw.  The instructor spoke Japanese to the students plus the book they are using is written in Japanese.  All the students in the class looked like they were able to follow along and understand what was being asked of them.  I signed up for the class which will be finished shortly after the kids are out of school for the summer.  I'm grateful for the Japanese people who are willing to donate their time and energy in helping us Amerika-jin integrate into their society.

Here are a couple favorite reference books we've been using:

Our New Kuruma (Car)

Our "new" 2000 Nissan Liberty van.

As you all know we've been getting around on foot, bicycle, train and base bus since arriving in Japan.  This is how a majority of people here commute so we were within the norm.  We weren't in a hurry to buy a car at first because we were in the lodge and it was easy to get around plus we had to wait until we finished our orientation class and got our drivers licenses (we can't buy a car here unless we both have a U.S. Forces license) before we could seriously start car shopping.  We were loosely looking at cars shortly after we got here, but unfortunately our orientation class was very large (150+ people) so most of the cars at "The Lemon Lot" were being sold quickly.  We were trying to be patient but carrying all those groceries via bicycle or on foot was getting a bit old, plus we had ordered a shiki buton (a cushion to go on top of the futon) that we needed to pick up from the local Homes store.

Justin was very persistent when car shopping.  He was going to the lot many times during the week to test drive cars, or to see if there was anything new on the lot.  One of the major problems we found when car shopping was that almost every car had been smoked in.  Most of the cars on the lot were purchased at Japanese car auctions.  While the Japanese are very health conscious about their weight and exercise, its not uncommon to see them smoking in their cars.  This was something we were very opposed to because smoke is very hard to clean out of cars and the smell is hard to mask.

We also had discussions about what size of car to buy. Should we get a smaller 5 passenger car, or a small van with at least 7 seats for when we have to cart the kids' friends around or if company comes to visit us, etc?  Luckily, Justin ended up finding and test driving the van we ended up buying.  It had very low miles, is a 2000 (new for a used car here), and we have a little more JCI (Japanese compulsory insurance you have to have on your vehicles here) left.  We paid a little more than we had originally planned but most of the used cars we were looking at ranged from $2,000-$3,500 USD.  Not bad.  Like I've mentioned before, even though people drive really "old" used cars here they are taken care of...in my opinion a lot better than back in the U.S.

There's a bit of a process before we could actually get the car keys.  First, when you want to buy a certain vehicle you must go to your local police station.  They have to physically come out to your house and measure the parking spaces..to make sure the car will fit.  We've heard of people purchasing a car and having to turn around and sell it because it wouldn't fit into their parking space.  We're pretty fortunate where we live because we have 2 parking spaces at our house.  Many times the homes here only have one.  After the measurements were done Justin had a little more running around to do at the licensing office before he met back up with the car dealer.  We were lucky that the dealer was nice enough to deliver the car to our house.

I haven't driven the van yet but will probably try at some point.  The traffic is pretty crazy here, plus the pedestrians have a tendency to step out into the street when you least expect it.  It was wonderful to go to The Commissary last weekend and stock up on some food.  I think we had about 7 bags of groceries!

More Car Trivia:

1) American drivers are easy to spot in Japan because they have a Y on the left of their license plates.
2) American teenagers can take drivers training and get a permit on base.  They have to log 6 hours of practice with a parent even though they cannot drive off base until age 18.
3) The tolls from Yokosuka to Tokyo cost around $70.00.  If you rent a vehicle on base (which many people do) the rental fee includes vouchers you can use on the toll roads.

Keitai Denwa (Cell Phones)

My cell phone and Lucky Charm.

Inside of the phone.

There are 3 major phone companies in Japan that monopolize the cell phone market.  We weren't sure who to go with:  Docomo, Soft Bank or AU.....but ended up choosing AU.  Justin's work cell phone was AU, so that's one of the biggest reasons we chose the plan we did  plus the lady who helped us spoke very good English.  We found the rates to be cheaper than our plan back in the U.S., but are locked into a similar 2 year contract. 

Just like back in the states, there are a number of phones to choose from.  We ended up settling on the "free" Japanese phones even though one of the boys had his hopes of getting an I-Phone.  The one prerequisite I had for my own phone was to get one with a texting keyboard.  Can you believe they are not easy to come by here?  Everyone has flip phones!  I've read a variety of reasons why flip phones are popular such as:  you use one hand when texting which is easier to do on a crowded train or bus, they are compact/sleek looking, they have many emoticons that are popular here when texting, and most of all they have a place on the top of the phone to hang a lucky charm....which is a huge social practice here in Japan.

Its been very interesting having a foreign phone in Japan.  Here are a some differences I've noticed:

1) Every phone in Japan has an email attached to the phone number.
2) The numbers are the same, but we also have Japanese writing on the buttons.   I'm never quite sure what I'm pressing, or supposed to press.  
3) We get email spam or advertisements in Japanese.
4) The cameras on the phones have high mega pixels.
5) It is considered very rude to speak on cell phones on the train.  People put their phones on silent (or manner mode) so that they can still send/receive texts or play games while commuting.

Kimonos Are Not Just For Girls

My obi was lovely. 

His and her kimono.

The Meaning of Kimono in Japanese:  

kiru - to wear + mono - thing

tomesode:  kimono with a pattern on the bottom half worn by married women

furisode:  kimono with long, flowing sleeves worn by an unmarried woman

obi:  the belt that holds the kimono in place

To set the record straight, we never knew until last weekend that the kimono is worn by both genders.  We just always assumed that a kimono was worn only by females. We felt very naive, but that's why we're here....to learn and experience Japanese customs.  Kimonos can still be worn as a daily attire, but are usually just worn for special occasions such as: tea ceremony, weddings, New Years, and other formal festivities throughout the year.  Sumo wrestlers are also often seen wearing the kimono in public.

This past weekend we participated in a local Japanese cultural event.  Along with mochi pounding (a rice cake paste), games, food, tea ceremony, and art was the opportunity to dress up in a kimono.  There were many families (including young children) dressing up.  Our younger kids didn't want to dress up, so it was just us adults and it was an experience. 

We were taken back into a dressing area with very tiny, elderly, Japanese women helping us dress.  There were beautiful patterns of kimono and obi to choose from.  I found that the female kimono is usually very vibrant in color, while the male kimono is not.  Its actually quite monotone...typically in shades of black, or dark colors. 

My kimono was nice and comfortable UNTIL the obi was put on.  It felt like I was putting on a corset.....very tight.  I envisioned the little Japanese lady hanging onto the end of the obi since she just kept tugging on it to get it just right.  It probably didn't help that we'd just eaten.  When we were finished being dressed, the his/her kimonos looked great.  To complete the look were wore Japanese sandals with socks.  We didn't wear traditional tabi socks, but got our own socks to work just fine.  Walking around in the kimono is truly a wonderful feeling.  Your posture feels straighter, and to wear such an elegant piece of fabric was truly a unique experience.  Not to mention, I'm pretty sure I lost a couple inches off my ribcage by the time I took it off. 

I would love to purchase a kimono before we leave Japan.  They can be quite costly ranging in the thousands of dollars.  There are used kimono shops and flea markets that offer a less expensive way to purchase such a lovely piece of Japanese tradition. 

Japanese sandals.

 

Trash Talk

Our assigned garbage drop-off site.

Japan has an  intensive garbage and recycling system.  This is really no joke.  After signing our lease we were given a booklet about garbage and recycling in the city.  Luckily, its in English, but it was overwhelming to us newcomers.  We have trash/recycling 5x a week.  About a block from our house is a wire cage with green netting.  This is our designated garbage drop-off site between the hours of 0600-0800.  Until recently, we thought those cages were for animals!

Here's an example of what our weekly trash collection looks like:

Monday/Thursdays- Burnable (food scraps, small paper, foil-lined snack bags, paper towel rolls, etc).  These items must be in a transparent bag or white bag.
Tuesdays- PET Bottles, metal food cans (anything with a PET and recycling symbol around it...usually seen on plastic bottles from the vending machine). These items must be rinsed out and put into a transparent bag.
Wednesdays- Plastics (plastic film off food, plastic food containers, plastic shopping bags, styrofoam packaging, etc).  These items must be rinsed thoroughly, and put into a transparent bag.
Fridays- 1st & 3rd is Non-burnable (plastic straws, plastic toys, aluminum foil, etc).  Must be in a transparent bag.
Sundays- 2nd & 4th is Group Collection (toilet paper rolls, paper milk cartons rinsed, aired out, flattened, and tied with string, cardboard cut up into nice stacks and tied together with string, old clothing).

Sounds easy?  Its getting better now that were are finishing up with week two of this routine.  I do take a daily trek down to the garbage area to make sure our bags were taken.  The trash collectors will reject garbage if its not done correctly.  You get a nice yellow (and I've also seen blue) sticker on you bag explaining in Japanese  what you did wrong.  We had an incident last week with an older neighbor who ended up complaining to the owner of our house about how we left "incorrect" garbage at the collection site.  It wasn't ours, but our realtor had to come over and make some phone calls explaining that it wasn't us.  It was a bit tense because of the language barrier, and because we are so new to the neighborhood.  I did ask my Japanese language sensei some phrases I could say in the future in case this ever happens again.